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Parrots in Honduras.   Photo © Tami Gilliam, 2005-2007

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Apreview of all of our Cruiser's Stories... enjoy ....

Enjoy a synopsis of our Cruiser's Stories.  All are great, come back often ...

Cruiser's stories ....

 

Lyla & Aaron & Neptune's Rum

The Beginning of A Journey:  On Saturday, April 15, 2006, we finally dropped the dock lines from the marina in Madeira Beach, Florida and after waving goodbye to Frank, our consultant. He had come to bid us farewell and helped in the last minute preparations. Like helping me get the groceries to the boat when I had gone for a few things and ended up with a lot. As I was pushing my cart down the road aka "bag lady", he graciously provided excellent taxi service. We had sold the Pontiac Parisienne, our land yacht, that morning to a 17 year old kid who was ecstatic about owning his first car of luxury. At 12:45, we made it thru John's Pass and out, into the Gulf. We made last minute phone calls to family and friends, and as we listened to Van Morrison's song, "Into the Mystic", we watched the land sink into the horizon behind us. Our long awaited, hard-earned, grand sailing adventure had begun.  more ...

Rio Dulce RiverRose of Sharon:  Cruising in the Comfort Zone, Part 4:  Guatemala ... Guatemala!  At last!  When we began our cruising adventure in October 2004, we had no other objective than to sail our boat to Guatemala and up the Rio Dulce.  As Joe said, “October was the beginning and April is the end.  No matter what we do from here on out, we’ve accomplished our goal.”

We arrived at Livingston, Guatemala near dusk and it was too late to attempt a check-in.  The warm harbor waters were practically boiling with activity; fishing boats and fast boats and tour boats and shrimp boats were dodging each other and us at breakneck speed.  more ...

 

Caye Caulker, BelizeRose of Sharon:  Cruising in the Comfort Zone, Part 3:  Belize ... We began our Belize “immersion” two days after we arrived, and it was very, very different from Mexico. 

We immediately found a place with a live band and reasonably priced Belikin beer; Fido’s (pronounced fee-dohs) offers good fare at reasonable prices in a scenic beachfront setting. But our first San Pedro meal was at Elva’s Restaurant, a sand-floored thatch-roofed restaurant with terrific fried chicken and potato salad! Rumor has it that their hamburgers are the best in San Pedro, but several other restaurants make the same boast, so Joe and I decided we more ...

Isla Mujeres, MexicoRose of Sharon:  Cruising in the Comfort Zone, Part 2:  Florida & Mexico ... Joe plotted two courses, one was the rhumb line from the Dry Tortugas to Isla Mujeres; the other was to travel south and hang a right at Cuba, staying within the 25-mile nautical boundaries of the island. Joe and I visited Cuba as tourists in the early '90s, when political tension was more relaxed. We flew in a Russian prop plane from Montego Bay, Jamaica and landed in Santiago, Cuba for a day trip.

I found their history fascinating. We visited the gravesite of Jose Martí, a national hero and the rum factory that was owned by the government but founded by the Bacardi family. more ...

Houma, LouisianaRose of Sharon:  Cruising in the Comfort Zone, Part 1:  Texas to Florida ... In over eight years of living on a boat in Kemah, Texas, I have said goodbye to several cruisers.  Sometimes, they leave and stay gone.  Sometimes they leave and come back to take care of family, health or money matters then leave again.  And sometimes they abandon ship completely, discover cruising "wasn't what they thought it would be," and become landlubbers.  

First, you make the mistake of telling people you are "going cruising," and  soon." Then, as the months become years and the years become more years, people often ask you more ...

Tica Bus ... Harder Than Cruising ... Hi everyone,  Hope you are well.  Below is our latest update.  It is a long one, so go get another cup of coffee; sit back and enjoy.

Yes, there is something harder than cruising!  Having just spent the last 30 days backpacking thru Central America (from Guatemala to Panama and back – 18 bus trips, 27 taxi rides, 6 airplane flights, 3 nights sleeping on buses, 16 nights in hotels, 10 nights aboard our friends’ sailboat Sand Dollar, 33 restaurant meals, 18 border crossings, and 6 different currencies), we feel qualified to declare that backpacking is a harder mode of travel than cruising.  more ...

Voyage of the Sailing Vessel Retriever ... The funny thing is... here we are 3 weeks later and hundreds of miles away in Honduras.  It went like this...

We set out down the Intra-coastal Waterway in Florida in early December.  Cold but pleasant, slow going.  Much of the waterway is pristine protected wildlife preserve; more of it is concrete seawalls beside high-rise condos; and mostly it's a garish display of ostentatious houses the size of concert halls!  By Miami, we had had enough and finally headed for open ocean around Key Biscayne.  more ... 

Gunnar & Grethe, sailing vessel Sailabout.   Photo © Tami Gilliam, 2005-2007Trouble At Sea ... Gunnar & Grethe are a truly adorable, funny, fun couple.  Teachers from Norway, they took a year sabbatical.  They bought Sailabout in January in the Rio Dulce River in Guatemala and their goal was to sail to New Zealand.  Greta insisted that they install a Single Sideband High Frequency Radio or better known as an SSB.  She finally got her radio when they were in Jonesville, Roatan.  Several boaters finally convinced Gunnar that he had to have the radio for safety, since they were planning such a long crossing.  Doug, from Kristiana, more ...

Reg & Maureen from S/V Heart of Oak.   Photo © Reg McCluskey, 2005-2007Bureaucracy Kuna Style ... It was with great expectations that my wife, Maureen, and I arrived in the San Blas Islands of Panama in October, 2002 aboard our CSY 44 “Heart of Oak“. We had heard and read nothing but favorable comments from all who had gone there before us. We had heard of the beautiful molas made by the Kuna women, the fantastic snorkeling and diving, not to mention all the islands of palm trees and sandy beaches that make up the 100 mile long archipelago known to the Kuna Indians as “Kuna Yalla.”  As a result of a bitter struggle on the part of the Kunas the Panamanian government has basically given them more ...

Seawall the Duck.   Photo © Tami Gilliam, 2005-2007

Seawall The Duck ... Sometimes you pick your animal companion and sometimes your animal companion is thrust upon you.  Such was the way of Nancy Franetti and Jeff Stringfield, owners and operators of The Electric Marina in beautiful St. Petersburg, Florida where they are building their cruising kitty renting various water toys including electric boats to folks that would like to spend a little quality time on the water. more ...

Natives of Tikopia.   Photo © James Baldwin, 2005-2007

Tikopia Unspoilt ... A sail appears on the horizon and soon a crowd gathers on the beach. Canoes are launched into the surf, the men pulling hard on their paddles. The yacht tacks into the empty anchorage, guided through the menacing brown coral heads by canoes on either side of the bow. The anchor bites into the sandy bottom as a crowd of people on shore waves and shout a friendly greeting, “Malo e Leilei!” (Welcome).  more ...

Steve, sailing vessel 4Play, member of the Sweet River Band.   Photo © Tami Gilliam, 2005-2007

Sweet River Band ... I heard about them long before I saw them.  Stories were relayed to us in our little town of Port Aransas, Texas about a band on the Rio Dulce River in Guatemala that is made up exclusively of folks that cruise and live aboard their sailboats.  They called themselves “The Sweet River Band”.  Images of tropical nights and boat music occupied our thoughts.  One of our best friends, Hal on the sailboat Griffin, sailed back from an extended stay at Mario’s Marina there in Guatemala and told us all about this cruiser’s band.  He even co-wrote a song that has become one of their favorites, “Leaving my Keys for the Cays”. more ...

Pam & Wally, motor vessel Sandial.   Photo © Tami Gilliam, 2005-2007

From The Bridge ... Its been a long time coming it seems, but we finally got SANDIAL repaired from the damages caused by Hurricane Wilma in October of 2005. What I was hoping would take a couple of months took over a year.

However, we are not complaining. The delay afforded us the time to cruise the Chesapeake Bay and meet some more friends. The Chesapeake was an interesting trip and reinforced, in us, why we want to go south rather than north. North is not good. North is cold. North more ...

Al, Tom & Joe, Preparing for Dinghy Surgery.   Photo © Hal Schade, 2005-2007

Dinghy Surgery on the Rio Dulce ....  The day was windy and the seas choppy. Al of catamaran “Dragonfly” was picking up guests at a dock in Belize City. As he approached in the dinghy, he was greeted by weary travelers with piles of baggage. Another dock would have made loading easier, but he didn’t want to trouble the guests. All were aboard, but within mere seconds of departure a dip in the swell pushed the dinghy down under the dock. Al gasped at the sight of a large threatening bolt below the dock that would surely puncture the boat when the wave rose. Cries of “shove off” were drowned by the loud “wooooooosh” of air more ...

Cubans picked up by s/v Faith.   Photo © Dave Goodrum, 2005-2007

We've Got Cubans!  ... Sailing is full of surprises.

We’ve been at it seventeen years.  Full-time cruisers is the recognizable term; however, ‘sailing missionaries’ describes better what we do and why we do it.  To a half a dozen countries we have made errands of mercy, carrying medical supplies, relief items and church more ...

Howell & Jo, s/v Why Knot.   Photo © Howell Cooper, 2005-2007

To Arms to Arms a Troll is on the Loose!  ...  All boaters, but especially sailors have a bit of a problem yet to be completely defined.  Perhaps it is something we all accept, especially cruisers “out there” for extended periods of time.  After much study, and more than a few recent incidents, I have actually determined the problem to be a Troll. 

I speak of that little dirt bag that has a secret locker, more ....

Map of the NW Caribbean.

An Adventurous Trip from Belize to Honduras ... Have to tell the story of Lighthouse Reef.  Before arriving there we were in Cucumber Beach Marina south of Belize City.  Left there headed to Water Caye.  Got to Water Caye then the starter motor decided to catch fire.  Never fun, but we dealt with it.  A tow from a great guy we’d met in Cucumber got us back to their docks.  Miracles of miracles, we got the starter rebuilt and were back to Water Cay within 24 hours.

Met s/v Kaija’s Song at Goffs Caye about noon.  Dinghied to the Caye, had a thunderstorm or two, dinner aboard, said our farewells and were off to Lighthouse Reef at first light.  more ...

Hal, sailing vessel Griffin.   Photo © Tami Gilliam, 2005-2007

Did I Really Do That ...  If you spend any time cruising on a boat you can be assured that, from time to time, you will do things that just baffle you and greatly entertain others.

Long ago and far away when Griffin was in Port Aransas, Texas this little event happened.

Griffin had been dock-locked for some time and a beautiful day brought out the urge to leave the slip and venture beyond the jetties. more ... 

A man & his dog aboard their sailing vessel.   Photo © Tami Gilliam, 2005-2007

Crazy Mike's Sailing Adventure ... Hola from Texas, sorry it’s been so long emailing.  I left Livingston, Guatemala on October 30th.  Day 1 had good wind.  After that I had to motor sail every day.  Wind on the nose.  What else would you expect? Anchored every night, till I got to Caye Caulker, Belize.  Ran aground for 6 hours at Caye Caulker.  Local launcha got me off.  No charge.  Took south cut through the reef.  When I hit Mexican water I finally got good wind.  Running 6 knots plus with the current.  Not bad seas.  Just south of Bay de la Ascension, I tacked east  more ...

Bob, sailing vessel Defiance.   Photo © Tami Gilliam, 2005-2007

An Unfortunate Reef Encounter ... On June 16, 2005 at 3:30am, the sailing trimaran CHOUPIQUE struck the reef just South of Xcalak, Mexico, just inside the Belizean border. 

The following is a reprint of a letter sent to the American Consulate in Merida, Mexico detailing the events before and after the incident.  more ...

A coulpe of sailors taking advantage of a mud facial.   Photo © Howell Cooper, 2005-2007

A Mexican Adventure ... Bear and I have been sailing for over 25 years in lake waters and in the Gulf of Mexico.  We have several friends who have been after us to join them in the Caribbean waters and to simply “get out there”.  We purchased a boat that survived Katrina when it was docked in New Orleans and have been trying to build some serious offshore time ever since.  I am convinced that sailing vessels, at least, have a soul and that they want to be at sea.  Very few ever feel the ocean swell.  We vowed that Why Knot would have an active life.  more ...

Scott, sailing vessel Rubicon.   Photo © Tami Gilliam, 2005-2007

In The Pink ... Pulling your boat from the water and the resulting maintenance costs are always greater than expected, and this occasion would be no different; at least in this regard.

It quickly became apparent that I’d need to shave costs wherever I could, and that included how I painted the boat.  Needing to paint the hull, the bottom and the waterline/trim, I gave some thought as to the best order in which these should be painted.   more ...

Blue Sky under sail.   Photo © Tami Gilliam, 2005-2007

True Tales from Cruiser's  ... Needing to escape from the hubbub of Colon, we spent 6 days anchored in the nearby Rio Chagres River.  As constant rain kept us from going ashore, we passed the days catching rain water, doing boat chores, sewing awnings and mast boots in preparation for the upcoming rainy season in South America.  Finally on Memorial Day the rain let up enough for exploring.  We tied our inflatable to the short finger dock across from a tiny bird nesting island.  After making our way up to the main trail, it was a pleasant walk hand in hand thru more ...  

Procyon.   Photo © Tami Gilliam, 2005-2007

Health Scare at Sea ...We are at anchor in the bay at Nuka Hiva, Marquesas.  We made the crossing in 21 days and a few hours.  Saying it that way makes it sound so normal.  It most definitely was not a normal trip.  The first 10 days were great.  We had good winds and were making very good time, had only put 16 hours on the engine and were averaging 150 mile days.  Then Randy woke up in the middle night not feeling well.  Light headed and sick to his more...

A Green Moray Eel at Lighthouse Reef in Belize.   Photo © Carl Schele, 2005-2007

A Sailing Adventure  ... If you get this it means we have left Port Aransas.  For where, we don't know.  But, we hope Isla... trying for warmer weather.  Day one:  Nice north wind for about one hour, then ESE wind.  Off course, looks like Campeche.  Washing machine effect.  Motor sailed part of the night.  Day two:  Wind picked up 15-18kt SE.  Now Veracruz is looking good.  Might tack, might not.  Smashing square into 4 footers.  Maybe we will wait for the cruisers from the Veracruz race.  Raymond I think your record of 4 1/2 days from Port A to Isla is intact, more ...

Rubicon.   Photo © Tami Gilliam, 2005-2007

Good Samaritan & The Seat ... As hurricane Wilma approached a friend of mine said he was evacuating to Tampa, Florida.  He asked that I keep an eye on his sailboat and dinghy, in case he couldn’t make it back.  I noted where he parked his dinghy and suggested he leave combination locks on everything so he wouldn’t have to mail a key if access became necessary.  He said he would.  Wilma came and went.  His dinghy was full of water, so I jumped in and bailed it out.  The sea was still too rough for me to venture out in my little dingy, so I e-mailed him asking more ...

Scott's Head.   Photo © Scott Fraser, 2005-2007

A Brilliantly Dumb Idea ... READER'S FAVORITE ...  The Florida Marine Patrol bagged me the other night.  It was like a simple traffic stop, only on the water.  About 9:30 p.m. I was making my nightly six-minute dinghy trek across the harbor back to my boat.  I had dutifully stuck my little red/green split flashlight up on the front of my rubber inflatable.  However, to the Marine Patrol approaching from the rear it appeared I was running without any lights at all.  Technically, in addition to the red/green light shining forward, I should have had a white light visible from the rear; either that or a single 3600 light on the boat's highest point. I knew of this regulation, but didn't believe anyone would be that nit-picky.  Acknowledging my forward lights  more ...

The bounty from a shopping trip to Fronteras, Guatemala.   Photo © Hal Schade, 2005-2007

A Virtual Walk to Fronteras in the Rio Dulce ...  It's Wednesday morning and fresh vegetables are in the stalls in Fronteras, our little "town.”  We need to go since the Monday’s "piranha potluck" used up everything left over from the Saturday market trip.  I think I'll drown the next person who brings a can of corn as their contribution and then has the audacity to ask for a can opener!  I go to the lanche (little boat) and pump out last night's rain, then get out on the river and head what feels like miles up-river to town.  The river is about a half mile wide all the way, with rich folks more ...

Street to the Clinic.   Photo © Hal Schade, 2005-2007

A Virtual Walk to the Clinic in the Rio Dulce ... It's Thursday and I should be going to the village clinic, but I have some things I need to do here.  While I'm waiting I thought I'd take you on a walk, virtual that is, to the clinic.  Now dust off that old imagination and here we go.  With the sun just clearing the trees and mountains to the east, you head north out of the marina on a concrete sidewalk that is dusted a verdant green by the rainy season with little eco-systems in more...

Chicken Bus in Guatemala.   Photo © Tami Gilliam, 2005-2007

A Ride on a Chicken Bus in Guatemala ... One of the lessons my wife, Tami, and I have learned while cruising aboard our 31 foot Island Packet “Heart of Gold” is that many of the most memorable and entertaining moments do not happen on the water.  Often our adventures occur while traveling inland, visiting with the local people and learning their way of life.  We recently sat out hurricane season tied up to a dock at Mario’s Marina, a resort type marina with a pool, restaurant and a very comfortable bar that served to pass the time, on the Rio Dulce (Sweet River) in more ...